Astypalea Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Eat & Swim

Last updated August 2026

Astypalea landed on my radar about five years ago, and I’ve been wanting to visit it ever since. Its unusual butterfly shape lends a different feel to the island, creating a unique set of beaches and a breathtaking hilltop Chora with views stretching across both wings of the island. Astypalea has been called the Santorini of 20 years ago, an intriguing description in and of itself. It’s also a short hop from Patmos, an island that flies under the radar but draws loyal return visitors year after year, which only made me more curious to explore this corner of the Dodecanese.

What surprised me most about Astypalea was the reaction of many Greeks who found out we were visiting: every one was just as excited as the last, insisting we picked such a good destination. It’s still relatively unknown as a destination (despite being a short 50-minute flight from Athens!). Most tourists we ran into were Greek, followed by French and Italian tourists. We didn’t run into a single U.S. tourist the full 10 days we were on the island.

Overall, we loved the laid-back pace, the excellent restaurants, and the simple, unfussy chora with its picturesque windmills and small winding streets. A highlight was definitely our boat day and getting to visit nearby satellite islands with picturesque swimming spots. The water here was some of the most beautiful we’ve seen in Greece: turquoise and clear to the bottom. Overall, I felt Astypalea is a great fit for couples, families, and solo travelers alike.

5-8 DAYS

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BEST TIME TO VISIT – JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER

WEATHER – HOT, DRY SUMMERS

GETTING AROUND – RENTAL CAR OR ‘ASTYBUS’

CURRENCY – EUROS, MOST PLACES TAKE CREDIT CARDS

LANGUAGE – GREEK, MOST PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH

GETTING THERE – FLIGHT (50 MIN FROM ATHENS, A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK IN HIGH SEASON), OR FERRY TO SKALA (ASTYPALEA PORT)

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Left to right from top of post: The iconic windmills in the Chora; swimmers at Koutsomiti Beach, the streets of Chora; tables on the ocean at Akti Restaurant; views from Querini Castle; Castro Bar in Chora.

Getting Around Astypalea

While we rented a car for our trip so we were flexible to explore the beaches we wanted, it’s worth mentioning that Astypalea has a notable ‘green’ initiative. As part of a government-backed eco-mobility program, the island has replaced public transport with electric minibuses. The on-demand rideshare service is called ASTYBUS, and you can call a ride straight from the astyMOVE app to spots like Chora and select beaches (note this isn’t island-wide, drop-off points are limited). There are also electric cars available to rent, plus EV charging ports around the island, making it easy to get around sustainably.

Where to Stay on Astypalea

Astypalea has minimal information online compared to more popular islands, which made planning both fun and tricky. My goal for Astypalea was to stay within walking distance of Chora rather than beachfront, since the town was the main draw and the best beaches did not seem to have any accommodation options nearby. I wanted easy access to the beautiful views, restaurants, and shops that come alive once the sun goes down.

I originally had my eye on Pylaia Boutique Hotel & Spa, but it wasn’t open for booking at the time. In hindsight, I’m glad it worked out that way: after visiting in person, it’s clear the property isn’t easily walkable into town despite its highly-rated restaurant and boutique feel. I ended up at Grande Mar Suites instead, which turned out to be one of our all-time favorite stays ever in the Greek Islands. The service, the food, the privacy, the pool, the comfortable beds, and the two-minute walk into Chora made it one of our best experiences anywhere, and that was especially valuable traveling with a toddler.

Grande Mar Suites

Astypalea’s Best Stays

TOP PICK | Grande Mar Suites

A luxurious, design-forward beachfront property with a pool and restaurant on one of the best beaches on Naxos: Plaka.

BEST FOR BEACH ACCESS | Alas Seaside Astypalea

Cycladic villas directly across from Livadi Beach, one of the best beaches on the island. Great for groups and families.

BEST BOUTIQUE HOTEL | Saluti Da Stampalia

A design-forward boutique hotel perched the hillside, with beautiful views overlooking the sea.

Best Areas to Stay on Astypalea

Chora: The Best Base if You’re Without a Car Chora is where we stayed, and I’d recommend it to anyone without a rental car. It’s walkable to restaurants, shops, and the windmills, with the Querini Castle towering above. Stay: Grande Mar Suites

Paralia Livadi: Best for a Beachfront Stay If you want to be steps from the sand, Livadi is your spot, with restaurants and beach bars lining the stretch. Stay: Alas Seaside Astypalea

Maltezana: A Quiet, Family-Friendly Beach Option Maltezana, while quiet and more removed, is a great option for families thanks to its sandy beach and string of beach bars and tavernas. (Note there are two areas that come up under this name; this refers to Maltezana Beach near Analipsi.) Stay: Seaview Beach House

By a Beach: For Those Wanting to Stay Outside Town If beachfront is a priority, your best bet is to book an Airbnb or hotel property directly on or near one of the island’s beaches like Livadi or Maltezana, or on a non-organized beach. Stay: Beach Front Greek Villa

Left to right from top: Astypalea’s windmills as seen from Ducato restaurant; entering Chora; views of Chora at sunset.

Boutique and Luxury Hotels on Astypalea

Alas Seaside Astypalea – $$ – Steps from the beach in Livadi, and a great option for families. Where I’d stay if I wanted easy beach access.

Nisides Suites – $$$ – A boutique property with sea views and a relaxed, design-forward feel, a solid alternative if Grande Mar Suites is booked up.

Saluti Da Stampalia – $$$ – A highly rated family-run boutique hotel perched on a hillside near Livadi Beach. Beautifully decorated, with stunning views of the Chora. Where I’d stay if I was picking a hotel. 

Melograno Villas – $$$ – A set of villas above town; worth a look if you’re traveling with a larger group and want to book multiple units at once.

Grande Mar Suites – $$$$ – Where we stayed and would book again in a heartbeat. A two-minute walk to Chora’s main street and the windmills, with incredible service, food, and a pool. Where I stayed.

All Images from Grande Mar Suites, left to right from top: Our living room; the view from our upstairs balcony; a dining area; our private pool with views of Chora and the ocean.

Airbnbs on Astypalea

• If you’re looking to be centrally located to restaurants in Chora, I recommend Karai the House, a modern stone house tucked into the old town. Alternatively, Beautiful House is central and bursting with charm, and Saluti Da Stampalia offers a modern, minimalist oasis with a view.
• For families, Seaview Beach House is another top pick, located just steps from Astypalea’s only sandy beach, Maltezana. Just outside of the Chora, Beach Front Greek Villa is another great option with its own private beach access.
• Another top pick is Gist, a brand new, beautifully designed property a close walk to Livadi Beach with a terrace and sea view.

If you’re planning a Greek Island Hopping Trip: my Insider’s Guide to the Greek Islands covers how to choose the right islands, build day-to-day itineraries, plan your ferry routes, and where Astypalea fits alongside nearby islands like Patmos. Peek inside.

The Best Restaurants on Astypalea

To Stenaki Toy Koukla – A casual, family-run souvlaki spot in town. The dolmades with meat were one of the tastiest dishes we had on the island.

Ducato Di Astypalea – Don’t skip this delicious dinner spot located just across from Chora’s windmills on the main street of town. Our favorite meal on the island, hands down.

Apanemia – A homey restaurant tucked away on a small alleyway in Chora below the castle. A must visit: the surrounding church and picturesque tables lining the street are inviting and cozy, and their homemade dishes are delicious.

Akti – If you’re after Santorini vibes, this is your spot. Maze-like stone steps and whitewashed walls with views of the Chora spilling over the hillside make this the most atmospheric restaurant around. Best for fresh fish and seafood.

Left: Akti restaurant with views of Chora; Right: Outdoor tables in the Chora alleyway at Apanemia.

Gazzou – A beachside lunch spot at Livadi with sun beds and solid food, easy to settle in for the afternoon.

Antikastro – A casual spot that’s known for their meat dishes. Arguably the best views of the port and Chora.

View of the port from our table at Antikastro.

Marinos – A charming pastry shop near Maltezana beach, worth a stop if you’re driving around the island.

Island Coffee & Cocktails – A relaxed taverna in Livadi for lunch or a drink. Great vibes and solid beachside options like sandwiches and burgers.

Karai Cafe (Καφενείο Καράι) – A dinner spot overlooking the water with one of the best views on the island, a wonderful place to watch the sun go down.

Left: Dusk at Karai Cafe (Καφενείο Καράι); Right: Fresh fish on ice at Akti Restaurant.

Nuts & Seeds – A great pastry shop with homemade treats that we popped into often. They serve coffee as well in seating across the street, with views of Chora.

Μεζεδοπωλείο Καρλος – A small, delicious family-run restaurant that’s beloved by locals and visitors alike.

Meltemi – Perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up or coffee. Meltemi is also a great spot at the entrance to Chora to sit and get some work done if needed.

The Best Beaches on Astypalea

Kaminakia Beach – A beautiful stretch of beach with arguably the best taverna on the island right on the water and plentiful sun beds. Easy to spend most of your day here. Reached via a dirt road.

Food nearby: Yes, one family-run taverna on the sand.

Beautiful Kaminakia Beach, one of the best beaches on Astypalea.

Vatses Beach – Below Kaminakia, this was also one of our favorite beaches. A basic beach bar sits right on the sand, and sun beds are available to rent (€15). Reached via a dirt road.

Food nearby: Yes, one beach bar but with limited food options.

Sunbeds and the beach bar at Vatses beach.

Livadi Beach – This organized beach with sunbeds is tucked in a bay with turquoise water, and a line up of tavernas and cafes right on the water. The best pick for windy days as it’s more protected than most of Astypalea’s beaches.

Food nearby: Yes, a handful of tavernas and beach bars on the sand.

Livadi Beach, an organized beach near Chora.

Agios Konstantinos Beach – Worth spending the whole day here, just save it for a calm day since it can be on the windier side. It’s especially beautiful at sunset, with views of the hilltop Chora in the background.

Food nearby: Yes, a small café and sun beds available.

Konstantinos Beach as seen from the small church above.

Plakes – This beautiful spot with crystal clear water includes a 5-7 minute hike down to a small, rocky beach with perfectly clear water. You could have it to yourself in the morning. Not ideal for littles due to the unestablished path.

Food nearby: No.

Rock formations and clear water at Plakes Beach.

Maltezana Beach (Analipsi)  – A long stretch of calm water lined with beach bars and food options. The best option if you want a sandy beach, and one of the best choices for families with kids.

Food nearby: Yes, several beach bars and tavernas.

Calm waters at Maltezana beach.

Steno Beach – A unique beach and interesting approach if you’re driving in, since you can see both sides of the island as you arrive. It’s a long stretch of beach, nice for swimming and spending the day.

Food nearby: Yes, a beach bar on either side.

The landscape of Astypalea at Steno beach.

Kounoupia & Koutsoumiti – both of these beaches are only reached by boat: they are located on the small satellite islands that you can see from Astypalea. Kounoupia is unique in that it is a narrow beach with beaches on either side, and Koutsoumiti has some of the most beautiful turquoise waters you’ll see in the Greek Islands.

I highly recommend visiting both alongside Astypalea’s red cliffs, a beautiful swimming spot with turquoise water and a cave you can actually swim into. We booked a half day boat tour with Astypalea VIP Yachting, which I’d highly recommend. They will take you to all three spots and also serve a snack and lunch on the boat (seafood pasta). This was a highlight of our trip! 

Left to right from top: a dip at our lunch stop; lunch on the boat; turquoise water at Koutsoumiti; double-sided Kounoupia beach; the iconic red cliffs on Astypalea.

Where to Watch the Sunset on Astypalea

Chora by the Windmills – Likely the best spot on the island, and the most iconic one. Watching the sun set and turn the sky pink behind the windmills and over the water is dreamy and romantic.

Querini Castle – Hike up to the top of Chora to get views of the sun setting over the island. Worth visiting at least once as the views are truly incredible no matter what time of day you go.

Agios Konstantinos Beach – You can see Chora in the background from the sand, which makes for a particularly special sunset from a beach.

Karai Cafe (Καφενείο Καράι) – This restaurant has a gorgeous view overlooking the water and Astypalea island. A great option if you want to enjoy dinner or drinks with the sunset.

Left to right: Church rooftops at golden hour in Chora; views of Chora at sunset, the church at top of Querini castle.

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This downloadable digital guide is an essential resource for planning your dream trip, from choosing the right islands for your travel style, to crafting an itinerary that balances exploration and ease, to day-to-day planning of where to stay, eat, and explore – and so much more. View the guide here.

FAQ

How do I get to Astypalea by ferry?

You can fly direct to Astypalea from Athens in less than 1 hour via Sky Express, though flights are limited and book up early. It’s also possible to ferry from Athens, though it’s a long journey (8.5-10 hours). If you’re not taking a plane, I’d recommend flying into Kos or Rhodes and taking a ferry from there instead. Search ferries here.

How many days should I spend on Astypalea?

I recommend at least 5 days on Astypalea. This gives you enough time to explore both sides of the island, take a boat day to the harder-to-reach beaches, and settle into the slower pace without feeling rushed. We spent 10 days here and didn’t run out of new spots to visit.

Is Astypalea good for families with kids?

Yes. We found it to be a nice mix for both couples and families, and it would also be an easy island for a solo traveler. Like most Greek islands, it isn’t very stroller-friendly, but staying in Livadi Beach or Maltezana Beach would change that, since both are accessible, flat villages with a beach.

Astypalea vs. other Greek Islands: who is it best for?

Astypalea is most similar to Folegandros in terms of charm: both share a laid-back pace, a dramatic hilltop Chora, boutique hotel options, and off-the-beaten-path beaches. It also draws comparisons to Serifos, another island with a striking hilltop Chora that’s still under the radar, with great restaurants and large stretches of undeveloped land.

Astypalea is definitely best for travelers who want a quieter, more authentic Dodecanese experience with excellent food and scenery, without the tourist density of more well-known islands. I’d recommend pairing it with nearby Patmos or Amorgos, which is the easternmost island in the Cyclades.