Folegandros, Greece is a hidden gem conveniently close to Santorini yet wonderfully less visited. After an attempt at visiting this island a few years back (in which we ended up island hopping to Naxos instead), we finally made it to stay at the beachfront boutique hotel I’d been eyeing for years: Blue Sand Hotel. What makes Folegandros special is its small, explorable size, breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and a captivating Chora (downtown). The island is gaining popularity in the luxury travel sector due to new hotel openings, but still maintains its authentic character and remains more affordable than major islands like Santorini and Mykonos.
Like most smaller Greek Islands, the best way to get around Folegandros is by ATV. The island works particularly well for couples and friend groups, though families should note that many beaches require navigating terrain to access and some are rockier, making them less ideal for very young children. What Folegandros lacks in family-friendly beaches, it makes up for with incredible coastal views, charming villages, and a more authentic Greek atmosphere.
From left to right starting at top: overlooking Galifos beach; a boat and swimmer near Agali beach; pink bougainvillea in from of a traditional stone house in Chora; sunset views from the Church of Panagia; inside the Church of Panagia courtyard.Â
5+ DAYS
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BEST TIME TO VISIT – MAY THROUGH OCTOBER, LESS WIND & WARMER WATER LATER IN THE SUMMER
WEATHER – MILD, RAINY WINTERS & WARM, SUNNY SUMMERS
GETTING AROUND – MOTORCYCLE, ATV
CURRENCY – EUROS, MOST PLACES TAKE CREDIT CARDS
LANGUAGES – GREEK, MOST PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH
NEARBY AIRPORT – SANTORINI AIRPORT (JTR), THEN FERRY (APPROX 1 HR) TO FOLEGANDROS
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Where to Stay in Folegandros
Accommodation in Folegandros ranges from simple family-run hotels to newer luxury retreats. Due to the island’s small size, you can stay almost anywhere and still easily explore, but I highly recommend basing yourself at Agali Beach, otherwise known as Paralia Agkali (where one of my all-time favorite hotels is located– Blue Sand Folegandros). Alternatively, the Chora is incredibly charming, with plenty of Greek tavernas, cobblestone streets, and a beautiful backdrop of traditional buildings.
Hotels in Folegandros
Polikandia Hotel – $ – centrally located in the Chora with traditional Cycladic design. Features a pool and is walking distance to restaurants and shops.
Blue Sand Hotel – $$ – perfectly positioned on one of the island’s best beaches with stunning views of the Aegean Sea. Modern rooms with Cycladic touches and direct beach access. Where I stayed.
Aspalathras White Hotel – $$ – a serene retreat with whitewashed walls and blue accents. Offers panoramic views of the Aegean from its elevated position.
Anemi Hotel – $$ – a design-focused hotel featuring minimalist Cycladic architecture with contemporary elements. Located a short distance from the port of Karavostasi.
Chora Resort Hotel & Spa – $$ – a boutique hotel in the heart of the Chora offering traditional architecture with modern amenities. The property features a pool with panoramic views of the sea.
Themonies Luxury Suites – $$ – exclusive suites built in traditional style with modern luxuries. Private outdoor spaces and exceptional service in a quiet location.
Gundari – $$$$ – an exclusive luxury resort with a spa, set dramatically on rugged cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea. Opened in May 2024, Gundari is the first 5 star resort on Folegandros. The suites and villas each feature private pools and beautiful, minimalist design. Where I’d splurge.
Our room and views from the restaurant balcony at Blue Sand Hotel Folegandros.Â
Houses in Folegandros
Perigiali Rooms – $$ – charming beachfront accommodations nestled directly on Agali Beach, my favorite on the island. The rooms feature Cycladic architecture with immediate access to the beach and stunning cliff views.
Sirokos – $$ – a stylish 2-bedroom apartment blending contemporary design with island charm, featuring a private terrace with serene vistas.
Xaraki Traditional Houses – $$ – Location, location: these authentic stone houses in the heart of Chora are just steps away from the town squares and amazing restaurants.
Makarias Luxury Villas – $$$ – elegant private villas combining traditional Folegandros aesthetics with sophisticated luxury. Each villa features expansive outdoor areas, stunning sea views, and personalized service in a tranquil setting.
Villa Mikros – $$$ – a 4-bedroom villa showcasing refined Cycladic design with modern comforts. Spacious living areas open to panoramic terraces with uninterrupted sea views, perfect for group or family retreats.
View all hotels and homes on Folegandros
Where to Eat in Folegandros
Under The Palm Tree – a sweet little stopover for lunch while you’re beach-hopping. This little pastel cafe serves an unfussy, simple lunch menu with local ingredients.
Chic Restaurant – specializing in locally-sourced dishes with lamb being a standout. The rustic-chic atmosphere and attentive service make for a memorable dining experience.
O Psaromiligkas – this local spot has a reputation for being one of the best restaurants on the island. It was unfortunately closed when we visited, but I would definitely add it to your rotation.
Pasithea – a traditional Greek restaurant with stunning views over Agali beach. Order the freshly caught fish and local homemade pasta, ‘Matsata’.
To Zimaraki – an Italian eatery with delicious homemade pasta (and gluten free options). Despite being outside the main square, this lively spot tends to be bustling during the summer months.
To Barbounaki – seafood is the star at this cozy restaurant. The owner is the son of another local restauranteur, and tasty dishes seem to run in the family.
Papalagi Seafood – this breezy lunch spot with a view is best accessed when hiking from Agali Beach to Agios Nikolaos Beach. The eggplant dip, melitzanosalata, is a standout.
Folegandros Bakery (Ano Meria Bakery) – arriving at this rustic bakery, you wouldn’t be alone in thinking you are entering someone’s kitchen. The draw here is homemade watermelon pies, but the local cheese and zucchini pies are just as deserving of attention.
What to Do in Folegandros
Hire a boat – Rent a small motorboat for the day to explore the island’s secluded coves and beaches that are inaccessible by land. Many rental companies offer boats that don’t require a license, making this activity accessible to most visitors. Pack a picnic and anchor at various spots around the island for a truly memorable day on the water.
Hike to the church for sunset – The hike to the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) is a must-do experience in Folegandros. Perched on a hill above the Chora, this whitewashed church offers panoramic views of the island and the Aegean Sea. The path is well-marked but somewhat steep, so wear appropriate shoes. Timing your hike to catch the sunset from this vantage point will reward you with one of the most spectacular views in the Cyclades.
Try all the local specialties – Folegandros has several unique local dishes worth seeking out. Sample matsata (handmade pasta sometimes served with rabbit or rooster), souroto (local cheese similar to feta but with a stronger flavor), melopita (honey pie), and the island’s famous watermelon pies. Many tavernas in the Chora serve these authentic dishes, giving you a taste of true Folegandrian cuisine.
Visit the Old Cycladic houses – Take time to explore the traditional settlements, particularly in Ano Meria where you’ll find “themonia” – complex structures that once served as both homes and agricultural facilities. These unique buildings offer a glimpse into the island’s rural past and traditional way of life. Some are still inhabited, while others have been preserved as cultural monuments. You can also go one step further with an in-depth historical tour of the island.
Explore the Chora at night – Folegandros’ main town transforms after dark, with its winding alleys lit by warm lights and tavernas buzzing with locals and visitors. Take an evening stroll through the three connected squares, stop for a cocktail or ouzo, and enjoy the lively yet relaxed atmosphere that defines Greek island nightlife at its most authentic.
Visit the Folklore Museum – Located in Ano Meria, this small but fascinating museum showcases items from traditional Folegandros households, agricultural tools, and historical photographs. It’s a wonderful way to understand the island’s cultural heritage and how people lived here in past centuries.
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Beaches to Visit in Folegandros
Paralia Agali
Easily one of the most picturesque beaches on the island, this flat beach surrounded by cliffs and white cycladic houses is easily accessed via a dirt road. There’s a dock here with boat rentals as well. There’s a reason I highly recommend staying at Blue Sand Folegandros here–perfect beach access.
Food options nearby: Yes, there are a number of restaurants on the beach and a short walk up from it.
Galifos Beach
This charming cove is just around the corner from Agali, reached by a short walk. The turquoise water, whitewashed stones and boat houses make for a beautiful backdrop.
Food options nearby: No, but you can easily walk back to Agali Beach for lunch options or continue on to Agios Nikolaos (below).
Agios Nikolaos
A beautiful small beach accessible by a scenic path from Agali or by boat. Known for its crystal-clear turquoise waters and the small white church of Agios Nikolaos that stands nearby. The beach is partially organized with some sunbeds and umbrellas.
Food options nearby: Limited, with one small cantina serving basic refreshments during high season.
Agios Georgios Beach
A long stretch of beach at the end of the road, featuring perched cycladic houses and spots for shade.
Food options nearby: No.
Paralia Livadaki
This peaceful beach is surrounded by dramatic red rocks and nooked sunbathing spots. It’s a hike from the mainland (plan for 30-40 minutes one way), or a great spot to drop anchor if you’re exploring the island by boat.
Food options nearby: No, you’d be better off bringing your own food or planning to stop en route.
Katergo Beach
One of the most remote and beautiful beaches on the island, accessible only by boat or a challenging hike. The reward is pristine waters and a sense of discovery that’s increasingly rare in the Cyclades.
Food options nearby: No.
Paralia Ampeli
This isolated pebble beach is surrounded by brush and whitewashed rocks. A tiny footpath will lead you here; stay for the crystal clear water and caves that you can swim up to.
Food options nearby: No.
Paralia Ligaria
Located on the north side of the island, this beach at the base of the cliffs is often empty due to choppier waves and wind.
Food options nearby: No.
Where to Watch the Sunset in Folegandros
The Church of Panagia – The island’s most famous sunset spot, offering panoramic views of the entire island and the Aegean Sea. The whitewashed church against the golden light creates a quintessential Greek island scene.
Chora Square – Find a table at one of the tavernas in the main square and watch as the setting sun bathes the traditional buildings in warm light. The atmosphere becomes magical as the village lights begin to twinkle.
Livadi Beach – For a different perspective, head to this west-facing beach where you can watch the sun sink directly into the sea. The beach is less crowded in the evening, offering a more peaceful sunset experience.
Lighthouse Point – A bit off the beaten path, the old lighthouse area provides unobstructed views of the sunset over the water. The rugged landscape adds drama to the already spectacular light show.
When to Visit Folegandros
Folegandros is best visited from May through October, with July and August being the busiest months. For a more peaceful experience with pleasant weather, consider the shoulder seasons of May-June or September-October. The water is warmest in late summer, and the winds tend to be calmer then as well. Winter visitors will find many businesses closed, though the island takes on a quiet, authentic character that some travelers cherish.
If you’re looking to pair a visit to Folegandros with another nearby island, consider Santorini for its dramatic caldera views, Milos for its unique beach landscapes, or Paros which is great for groups.
