Serifos doesn’t show up on most people’s Greek Islands shortlist, and that’s exactly what makes it worth visiting. While nearby Sifnos and Milos continue to gain popularity, Serifos has remained the slow island alternative: rugged, unhurried, and low-key. It’s the kind of island where the beaches shift from wild and windswept to perfectly calm depending on the day. What originally attracted me here was the dramatic view of Serifos’ iconic hilltop Chora (main town) rising steeply above the ocean with Cycladic homes dotting the hillside.
I visited Serifos in late August with family and friends, including my then 2-year-old son, and stayed for a full week. If you’re used to the more polished side of the Cyclades, Serifos feels like a reset. It’s not the island for a packed itinerary or a lineup of high-end restaurants, but if you’re drawn to slow mornings on quiet beaches, afternoon swims in clear water, and dinners with views that genuinely stop conversation, this island delivers. Locals were warm and wonderfully accommodating with kids, though I’d describe the vibe here as more relaxed than family-focused.
One thing I’ll say upfront: a rental car or ATV is essential on Serifos. The island is small but its beaches are spread out, and some of the best ones require a drive (or a hike). The reward is almost always a stretch of clear water that feels entirely your own.
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5-7 DAYS
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BEST TIME TO VISIT – JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER
WEATHER – HOT, DRY SUMMERS
GETTING AROUND – RENTAL CAR OR ATV RECOMMENDED
CURRENCY – EUROS, MOST PLACES TAKE CREDIT CARDS
LANGUAGE – GREEK, MOST PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH
NEARBY FERRY PORT – LIVADI PORT
Pair it with: Sifnos (20 minute ferry) or Milos (1.5 hour ferry)
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Where to Stay on Serifos
Serifos is less developed than most Cycladic islands, and while the beaches are plentiful, the variety in quality and atmosphere is significant. Some are rocky and exposed to the wind; others are genuinely beautiful and calm. When planning my trip here, easy beach access from our stay was my top priority, so I set out to find accommodation on the best beach on Serifos.
After a lot of research, I landed on Aspes Villas, located just up the hill from Psili Ammos beach. The decision was easy once I confirmed the beach had a taverna directly on the sand: if we were going to be beach-based, we needed to be able to eat without packing everything up and driving somewhere. Psili Ammos turned out to be the right call. It’s one of the more picturesque and swimmable beaches on the island, Stefanakos Tavern on the sand was consistently delicious, and Livadi town (the main hub for restaurants and shopping) was a quick drive away.
If I were planning this trip again, I would still want to stay on Psili Ammos beach or in a beautiful hilltop stay with a view overlooking a quiet beach like Perma Serifos hotel over Agios Sostis beach or Mousti’s Airbnb over Kalo Ampeli beach. Note that Perma Serifos is adults-only, so it’s not an option if you’re traveling with young kids.
For our stay at Aspes Villas, though we loved the views and the spacious property, there isn’t an established walking path down to the beach. With a toddler and beach gear in tow, we ended up driving to park at Stefanakos each time, a quick 2-minute drive but more coordination than I had hoped for.
Left to right from top: beach views from Nikoulias restaurant; the Greek church gates in Chora; the main square in Serifos’ hilltop Chora.
Best Areas to Stay on Serifos
These are the three options for where to stay that I’d recommend for someone visiting Serifos for the first time.
Psili Ammos Beach: Best for a Beach-First Base One of the most scenic and swimmable beaches on the island, with one taverna and one small bar on the sand. Best for travelers who want to slow down and stay put. Stay: Aspes Villas
Chora: Best for Atmosphere and Evening Dining. The dramatic hilltop village with sweeping views of the island. Less practical for beach access, but incredible for photography and wandering on foot. Stay: The Nest House
Livadi / Livadakia: Best for First-Timers and Easy Living Serifos’s main port is the most convenient base on the island with ferry access, restaurants, and calm, swimmable Livadakia beach, all within easy walking distance. If you’d rather spend your energy exploring than logistics-planning, this is where to stay. Stay: Pénde Suites or Nōstos Boutique Hotel
On A Secluded Beach or Hilltop: Best for Couples and Slow Travelers Not every Greek Island offers sweeping views and serene Cycladic getaways like Serifos does; this island shines in hidden gem properties that feel removed and remote. Stay: Mousti’s, a hilltop retreat above Kalo Ampeli beach with panoramic ocean views
Left: sunset swimmers at Psili Ammos beach; Right: a restaurant on the sand at Livadi port.
Boutique and Luxury Hotels on Serifos
Pénde Suites – $$ – A charming mini boutique hotel in Livadakia with 5 design-forward suites just steps from the beach and port. Known for its warm, hands-on hospitality and a breakfast basket delivered to your room each morning. A great option if you want to be close to restaurants and town without a car.
Nōstos Boutique Hotel – $$ – A renovated 17-room neo-Cycladic hideaway in Livadi, revived by the grandson of the original owner with eco-minded design and beautiful communal spaces. The Maxi Suite is the standout, with a private hot tub and uninterrupted sea views.
Perma Serifos – $$$ – A newly opened adults-only sanctuary tucked into a secluded cove on the southern coast, with a handful of suites built from locally sourced stone. Each suite has a private pool, sea views, and access to a private beach. My dream stay on Serifos — I’d book this in a heartbeat if I returned.
Coco-Mat Eco Residences Serifos – $$$$ – One of the most unique and remote stays on the island: eco-conscious, right on the sand on Vagia Beach, and very far from the crowds (about 11km from Livadi, so a car is essential). The property is restored from former miner’s houses and equipped with thoughtful furnishings and signature Coco-Mat beds.
Beachfront Villas and Airbnbs on Serifos
Serifos is one of those Greek Islands that really shines when it comes to incredible rental properties. From Airbnbs perched on the hillside to villa rentals on what feels like your own private beach, it’s absolutely worth considering going this route during your stay.
Aspes Villas – $$ – Right above my favorite beach Psili Ammos, Aspes Villas includes four independent stone villas perched on a hillside (each with panoramic terraces), fully equipped kitchens, and sea views. Great for families or small groups. From a practical side, note that there’s no true established path to the beach from the property so we would drive down the hill to the beach. Where I stayed, and would stay again for this specific beach.
Our outdoor terrace and the view of the ocean from Aspes Villas.
Aurora Serifos – $$ – A Cycladic house tucked above Agios Sostis beach, with sea views and an 8-minute walk down to the sand. A great mid-range pick if you want a quiet, scenic base with easy access to one of the more peaceful (and less developed) beaches on Serifos.
Beach House – $$ – A traditional Cycladic two-bedroom home in Livadi (sleeps five), with glowing reviews and a layout that strikes a balance between local character and modern comfort. Perfect for travelers who want easy beach access and a short walk to restaurants and the port.
Homa Villa – $$$ – A private pool villa near Vagia beach on Serifos’s quieter eastern coast, far from the crowds and a short stroll from Coco-Mat Eco Residences. Best for couples or small families who want privacy, a swimming pool, and proximity to a beach you can have largely to yourself.
Airbnbs With A View on Serifos
In my opinion, Serifos has some of the best sea view properties on any Greek Island. Some of these are romantic and have sweeping views, some are more rugged and traditional. They deserved their own list:
- Staying in the Chora (main town) offers picturesque views of the ocean and Cycladic homes; plus, tons of restaurant options at your doorstep. Check out Serifos White, Anemos House, and The Nest House in town. If you don’t mind being slightly removed, Fos of Serifos and Serifos Olive are also a walk into Chora.
- Sea views from a villa are Serifos’ bread and butter. Consider Mousti’s, Superb View Villa, and this Cycladic Summer Villa.
- From a purely aesthetic standpoint, Faros Villa is a standout; though it’s worth noting the beach is not one I’d recommend visiting if you’re not staying there.
Where to Eat on Serifos
The food scene on Serifos is unpretentious and satisfying: a mix of family-run tavernas, casual beach spots, and a handful of more elevated options for evenings out. It won’t rival Sifnos or Tinos for sheer variety, but several restaurants here stood out both in terms of atmosphere and quality of food.
Stefanakos Tavern – The taverna right on Psili Ammos beach, and the spot we returned to most on the island. Fresh seafood, authentic and simple preparations, and the kind of setting where you can eat with sand still on your feet. Don’t leave without trying whatever fish is fresh that day.
Stefanakos Tavern was a hit; we always ordered the fresh fish when we could (it often sold out).
Seriani Restobar – Our first dinner on the island, up in the hilltop village of Chora. It has a relaxed bar and restaurant feel that works equally well for a quick drink or a longer dinner. A great first introduction to the village and a solid way to spend the first evening.
Aloni Restaurant – Worth seeking out for the views alone. We had a group dinner here overlooking sweeping hillside scenery, and the setting did not disappoint. Book ahead if you’re visiting in peak season.
Nikoulias – Sits near Platis Gialos beach with beautiful windows overlooking the water. A great option to pair with an afternoon at that beach, and worth the short drive up the hill.
The view from Nikoulias restaurant.
Paspari – A Chora restaurant with a trendier, more contemporary feel compared to most spots on the island. Don’t miss the fish carpaccio.
Axinos Serifos – The higher-end option near Livadi, positioned right on the sand. Worth booking for a more elevated dinner in a beautiful waterfront setting.
Oi Plakes – Perched with views overlooking Chora’s steep hillside, it’s the kind of spot where the setting takes over before the food even arrives. We came here early to watch the sunset over a traditional Greek meal.
Local Greek dishes simply and deliciously prepared at Oi Plakes restaurant.
Lazy Monkey – A nice beachside option in the Livadi area, easygoing right on the water. Great for a midday break when you don’t want to leave the beach energy behind. Chill & Co – The go-to for a casual lunch in Livadi. We came here for burgers, and it hit the spot perfectly after a morning at the beach. Relaxed, no-frills, and consistently good.
Stratos’s – A breakfast and light lunch staple, right in the center of Chora’s town square. Coffee, pastries, and a front-row seat to the village coming alive in the morning. One of my favorite spots for a slow start to the day.
Oh My Serifos – A great stop for ice cream in town after a beach day or an evening walk.
Beaches to Visit in Serifos
Psili Ammos – Our home beach for the trip and my top pick for a beautiful, swimmable stretch of sand. The water is clear and relatively calm, and having Stefanakos Tavern directly on the beach made it incredibly easy to spend a full day here without ever needing to get in the car. One of the more picturesque beaches on the island.
Food nearby: Yes, one taverna and one small bar on the beach.
Ganema Beach – A long, pebbly stretch that tends to stay quieter than the beaches closer to Livadi. It has a wild, unhurried feel and is worth visiting if you want to feel like you have the island to yourself. The family-run taverna at one end of the beach is usually open from the morning.
Food nearby: Yes, one family-run taverna, Grandma’s Cafe, at the end of the beach.
Agios Sostis – A beautiful, peaceful beach accessed on foot, with a small chapel overlooking the water nearby that’s worth the detour for views alone. Bring an umbrella for shade, as there isn’t much natural cover on this beach.
Food nearby: No. Pack food and water.
Livadi Beach – The main beach closest to town, with a long stretch of sand and plenty of cafes and restaurants lining the waterfront. Convenient, lively, and a great option for a late afternoon swim before dinner.
Food nearby: Yes, plenty of options on the sand and a short walk away.
Platis Gialos – A quieter, wilder beach on the western side of the island. It can be exposed to the wind and the water is rockier than other beaches on Serifos, so water shoes are recommended. The upside: it’s rarely crowded. Nikoulias is a short drive or walk up the hill if you want lunch.
Food nearby: Yes, but it requires a short drive or walk up to Nikoulias, so plan accordingly.
What to Do on Serifos
Explore Chora in the morning. The main hilltop village of Serifos is one of the most photogenic spots I’ve come across in the Cyclades. Start your morning at Stratos’s with a coffee and then explore around the church and town square. There are plenty of side streets to wander if you don’t mind some stairs, and the morning light here is particularly beautiful.
Left: Stratos’s cafe in the main square, Right: Chora in the morning.
Have a late dinner in the village square. One of the most memorable parts of Serifos is how the town squares come alive after sunset. Grab a table in the main square of Chora, order a classic Greek spread, and stay as long as you like. Nobody is in a rush here, and that’s the whole point.
Go shopping in Livadi and Chora. Both towns have boutiques worth exploring, and if you’re a fan of local designers and handmade finds, Serifos delivers. In Chora, start at Fleva by Eleanna Katsira for clothing and unique pieces that capture the island’s aesthetic. In Livadi, Calle 31 is a great starting point for browsing. For handmade pottery, don’t miss Kerameio Ceramic Studio: a lovely stop whether you’re shopping or just want to watch the work being made.
Left: the facade of Kerameio; Right: inside their pottery studio with a view.
Rent a boat and explore. One of the best days of our trip was a full day out on the water, reaching beaches and coves that aren’t easily accessible by road. Even a half day makes the island feel bigger and more adventurous. Head to Livadi port to find boat rental companies with a skipper during your stay.
I highly recommend taking a boat out to beach hop while on Serifos.
Where to Watch the Sunset on Serifos
From the hilltop village of Chora – The area near the windmills and the church of Agios Konstantinos offers sweeping, panoramic views of the island and the sea below. It’s one of the more dramatic spots on Serifos for watching the light change at the end of the day, and the Chora silhouette against a golden sky is unforgettable.
From Oi Plakes restaurant – The view from here is worth timing a reservation around sunset specifically. The position overlooking the dramatic hillside makes it one of the most photogenic spots on the island for golden hour.
From the Livadi waterfront – A more relaxed option: grab a drink at a café or bar along the waterfront and watch the light fade over the water. Less dramatic than Chora, but easy, atmospheric, and a perfectly good way to end a beach day.
Sunset views from Serifos’ Chora with the ocean in the distance.
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FAQ
How do I get to Serifos by ferry?
Serifos is best accessed via Piraeus port in Athens. Most routes take around 2.5 to 4 hours depending on the ferry type and season. The island is also well-connected to nearby Cyclades: Sifnos is only 20-30 minutes away, and Milos is roughly 1 to 1.5 hours. Book ferries in advance during peak season (July and August) as routes can sell out quickly. I always use ferryhopper; click here to purchase ferry tickets.
How many days should I spend on Serifos?
I’d recommend at least 5 days to feel properly settled. A week felt like the right amount for us: enough time to explore the different beaches, revisit Chora at different hours, and take a full day out on the water without feeling rushed. Serifos rewards slow travel, so the more time you give it, the more it gives back.
Is Serifos good for families with young kids?
Yes, with a few caveats. Locals were warm and genuinely accommodating to our toddler, and beaches like Psili Ammos and Livadi have calm, shallow water great for little ones. That said, it does not have the same family-friendly infrastructure as other family-friendly Greek Islands like Sifnos: fewer large family hotels, less of the polished beach bar setup, and like most Greek Islands, it’s not particularly stroller-friendly. If you’re flexible and happy with a more relaxed, figure-it-out approach to traveling with kids, Serifos works beautifully.
Do I need a car on Serifos?
Yes. A rental car or ATV is essential on Serifos. The island is small but the best beaches are spread across the coast, and several require a drive down a dirt road to reach. Public buses run between Livadi and a handful of the main beaches in summer, but you will feel limited without a car. Book your rental well in advance during peak season (July and August) as cars sell out.
Serifos vs. Sifnos: which should I choose?
Sifnos has the edge on restaurants (having earned its reputation as the foodie island of the group), more polished accommodation, and is more family-friendly. Serifos is rawer, wilder, and less developed, which is either a draw or a deterrent depending on what you are after. If you are choosing just one, pick Sifnos for a first-time visit and Serifos for when you want to go deeper.
Serifos vs. other Greek Islands: which should I choose?
Compared to Milos, Serifos has fewer iconic beaches but a more dramatic Chora and a fraction of the crowds. Compared to Folegandros, the two share a similar slow pace and dramatic hilltop village; Folegandros is smaller and feels a bit more established due to its proximity to Santorini. If you love the look of Serifos but want to add another laid-back island to your itinerary, Folegandros pairs nicely. For more island comparisons, check out my guide to choosing the best Greek Island.
