After spending 2 days in the ancient cave city of Matera (read about this in part 1, which covers the first few days of our Puglia trip), we headed south to explore the quiet hilltop towns and coastal landscapes of Italy’s heel. While Matera is all about history and atmosphere, Puglia is about slowing down: swimming in turquoise grottos, wandering whitewashed towns, and eating incredible seafood by the water. Here’s how to spend 5 days exploring the best of Puglia’s coast and countryside.
4+ DAYS
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BEST TIME TO VISIT – Late spring (May-June) or early fall (September-October) for warm weather, swimmable seas, and fewer crowds
WEATHER – Hot, dry Mediterranean summers; mild, pleasant shoulder seasons
GETTING AROUND – Rental car essential for grottos, beaches, and town-hopping
CURRENCY – Euros, most places take credit cards
LANGUAGES – Italian, some English in tourist areas
NEARBY AIRPORTS – Bari Airport (BRI)
Planning Your Puglia Base
Puglia is a sprawling region, with many different towns and types of stays to base yourself in. Having stayed in two different Trulli properties during our trip a few years back, this time I opted to stay closer to the coast in a design-forward boutique hotel. We started with 3 nights in Sannicola (countryside location perfect for exploring the southern coast) before moving on to the northern part of Puglia around Monopoli. I would recommend at least 2 nights in Monopoli, a charming coastal town with great access to explore some of the more famous towns in Puglia.
Photos left to right: grapes at Tenuta Negroamaro, driving through Ostuni, bathers at Grotta Marina Naturale, streets of Polignano a Mare, Monopoli at golden hour.
Sannicola, Italy (3-4 Nights)
This was my base for exploring the quieter side of Puglia. I chose Sannicola based on the hotel (Tenuta Negroamaro), but it also served as the perfect jumping-off point to discover lesser-known beaches, charming towns, and the authentic farmland of southern Italy. The location gave us easy access to Gallipoli, Lecce, and the stunning coastline without being based in a busy city, something I wanted to avoid for this portion of the trip.
Where I Stayed in Sannicola: Tenuta Negroamaro
This boutique hotel outside Sannicola became our peaceful retreat after busy days of exploring. Set in converted farmland, Tenuta Negroamaro has a rustic-luxe vibe with a gorgeous pool, bar, and lounge-like atmosphere. The property feels secluded and serene, surrounded by olive groves and countryside.
The location worked perfectly as a base. It was close enough to Gallipoli (15 minutes), Lecce (30 minutes), and the coastline, but far enough to feel like an escape. We’d return each evening, have a swim, and enjoy the quiet before dinner out. If you’re looking for a slower-paced, restorative stay while exploring Puglia, this is ideal.
Book: Tenuta Negroamaro
Monopoli, Italy (2-3 Nights)
As I mentioned, since this was my second trip to Puglia I had seen this region in depth during a longer trip. However, I was most interested in returning to Monopoli (it’s a gem and generally less crowded than Polignano a Mare). Had it been available during our visit, I would’ve stayed at Don Ferrante, a boutique hotel with a central location in Monopoli overlooking the ocean. Alternatively, if you want a quieter option I’d go with the beautiful and affordable Masseria Borgo Ritella outside of Monopoli, for a dreamy stay within reach of the town.
If this is your first time visiting southern Italy, alternatively you could swap Sannicola for a stay at a trulli property like Borgo Canonica (between Ostuni and Cisternino). Staying in a trulli is unique to Puglia and absolutely worth experiencing if you haven’t yet. There are tons of properties with trulli in different regions throughout Puglia, so it’s worth searching for one in an area you’re most excited about.
Left: Boats at golden hour in Monopoli; Right: Traditional Trulli houses in Puglia.
Additional Places to Stay
Puglia’s ‘Masserias’ – A masseria is a traditional fortified farmhouse unique to Puglia, often surrounded by olive groves. Many have been converted to boutique hotels with restaurants serving farm-to-table dining. Besides the well-known and pricier Masseria Moroseta, take a look at Masseria Cervarolo (trulli houses!), Masseria Salinola outside Ostuni, and the newer Masseria Calderisi.
Luxury Italian Properties – alongside the beautiful 5-star luxury resort Borgo Egnazia in Puglia, with walking access to the beach, a dream property for me just outside of this region is Palazzo Margherita in Bernalda, Francis Ford Coppola’s 5-star boutique hotel in a nearby up-and-coming region of Italy that’s been on my radar for years.
Puglia Towns & Spots To Visit
- Alberobello – famous trulli houses (touristy but photogenic)
- Ostuni – the “White City” with maze-like whitewashed streets and excellent restaurants
- Lecce – known as the “Florence of the South” for its stunning Baroque architecture
- Gallipoli – lively old town on an island with great seafood and evening energy
- Polignano a Mare – cliffside town, gets crowded but beautiful
- Locorotondo – a picture-perfect whitewashed hilltop town overlooking vineyards
- Cisternino – authentic village known for its butcher-style restaurants and sunset views
- Spongano – sleepy small town near the Salento coast that’s local, rustic, and unspoiled
- Grotto Marina Naturale – two stunning swimming areas, one carved rectangularly and one with natural caves
- Cala Dell’Acquaviva – beautiful hidden grotto along the coast
- Grotta Zinzulusa – impressive sea cave with stalactites and clear swimming water
- Grotta della Poesia – literally ‘The Cave of Poetry’, a beautiful natural swimming hole
- Beach Torre San Giovanni – long sandy beach with shallow turquoise water, family-friendly
- Torre Sant’Andrea – a gorgeous natural swimming area with rocky coves and cliff jumping
Left to right from top: Views of Polignano a Mare; the square in Martina Franca; overlooking Alberobello; swimming at Torre Sant’Andrea.
Trip Highlights
Finding Apulian pottery in Ostuni – We stopped in Ostuni during our drive back up towards Monopoli, specifically seeking out Antichita Arte e Vintage, a tiny shop absolutely packed floor-to-ceiling with antique Apulian pottery. The owner spoke no English, but his passion for the ceramics was clear. We left with a few pieces that I crammed in my already overflowing luggage!
Lecce’s Architecture – I loved visiting Lecce for lunch and gelato during our previous trip, so we made sure to work in a late-afternoon stop in Lecce purely to grab food (head to 00 doppiozero) and see the Baroque architecture at golden hour. The buildings glow in warm light, and the city feels elegant and unhurried. Even a quick wander through the historic center, past ornate churches and the Roman amphitheater, is enough to understand why Lecce is called the “Florence of the South.”
Left: Apulian pottery in Ostuni at Antichita Arte e Vintage, Right: Lecce streets at golden hour.
Visiting Gallipoli in the evening – This town ended up being our go-to while in Sannicola. It has an island accessible by one road, filled with restaurants and shops and the sea on all sides. Our favorite dinner here was at Amu Restaurant, and afterwards we wandered the old town’s narrow streets, popping into small boutiques and soaking in the relaxed, social atmosphere.
My favorite meal of the trip at Amu Fish Restaurant, Gallipoli – This was an unforgettable experience. We tried Gallipoli’s specialty: raw purple shrimp (sounds wild, tastes incredible). The pasta was simple, fresh, and exactly what you want from coastal Italian seafood.
A day trip to Ostuni with pizza at Osteria Pizzeria Sant’Oronzo – This quaint restaurant served up delicious pizza alongside their homemade orecchiette pasta with wild radish greens, which was unique and flavorful. The restaurant’s location offered a charming view down one of Ostuni’s most picturesque streets, so we lingered long after finishing our meal just to soak it in.
Grotto Hopping along Italy’s heel – This was one of the most memorable days of the trip. We self-organized a drive down the coast, stopping at hidden swimming grottos carved into the limestone cliffs. The first stop, Grotta Marina Naturale, was our favorite. It has two distinct swimming areas: one had arches and natural caves, and the other one rectangularly carved and calm. We also visited Cala Dell’Acquaviva (a bit unique with whitewashed buildings reminiscent of the Greek Islands and Grotta Zinzulusa (a giant cave with a full walking path inside). Most grottos are accessible by car with easy parking nearby, so this was a perfect road trip day.
Left: Grotta Marina Naturale; Right: Divers at Cala Dell’Acquaviva
5-Day Puglia Itinerary
This itinerary picks up after my blog post covering 2 days in Matera (part 1). If you’re starting your trip in Puglia, begin with Day 1 below.
Day 1: Matera to Sannicola via Lecce
- Depart Matera for a drive down to southern Italy (approximately 1.5-3 hours depending on where you choose to base yourself)
- Stop in Lecce for lunch and spend a couple hours wandering the Baroque architecture and exploring shops until the late afternoon light hits (it’s beautiful here at golden hour)
- Continue to Sannicola, check into Tenuta Negroamaro, and have a relaxed dinner at the hotel
Day 2: Sannicola & Gallipoli
- Relax at the pool or explore nearby (make this your reset day)
- Drive to Gallipoli in the late afternoon to explore the old town before dinner: wander the narrow streets, browse boutiques, and watch the evening energy build
- Have dinner at Amu Fish Restaurant and order their specialty: raw purple shrimp pasta
Day 3: Grotto Hopping from Sannicola
- Start early and drive down the coast stopping at three grottos: Grotta Marina Naturale (two swimming areas, crystal clear water, often quiet), Cala Dell’Acquaviva, and Grotta Zinzulusa
- Stop for lunch (we opted for paninis followed by Affogatos!) at the marina nearby in Castro Marina
- Return to Gallipoli for dinner and an evening wander through the old town
Day 4: Sannicola to Monopoli via Ostuni
- Check out of Tenuta Negroamaro and drive north toward Monopoli
- Stop in Ostuni for lunch at Osteria Pizzeria Sant’Oronzo, explore the whitewashed streets, shop for pottery
- Make a stop in Martina Franca to wander the Baroque town center
- Check into your hotel in Monopoli and explore the harbor and old town before dinner
Day 5: Final Day in Monopoli
- Enjoy breakfast at your hotel and explore more of Monopoli’s streets and waterfront
- Head to Polignano a Mare or Alberobello to check out some of Puglia’s more famous towns
- Book a sunset boat tour (ours was cancelled due to wind, but I would’ve loved to do this one), or enjoy your last evening with a dinner at a Masseria
Left: Pizza and homemade orecchiete at Osteria Pizzeria Sant’Oronzo, Ostuni, Right: Pasta (GF) with Gallipoli’s local specialty: raw purple shrimp.
What I’d Do Differently
I previously spent almost 3 weeks in Puglia, and still barely scratched the surface. It’s a sprawling region of Italy, with tons to discover. This itinerary is short and sweet and focuses on lesser-visited towns up front, while hitting some of the more famous towns before you depart – if you can, I would aim to spend at least a week in this region so you can explore at a leisurely pace!
Practical Tips for Puglia
Renting a Car: Essential for exploring grottos, beaches, and towns. We found parking easy in most places except Gallipoli (there’s only one main parking lot by the water, and it fills up early).
When to Visit: Mid-to-late September was perfect with warm water, fewer crowds, and pleasant weather. May-June and September-October are ideal months.
Swimming: The water was still warm enough for swimming in mid-September. Bring water shoes for rocky grottos.
Language: Most people in tourist areas speak some English, but learning a few Italian phrases goes a long way.
Budget: This was a mid-to-luxury trip. Accommodations leaned upscale, but meals and activities were reasonably priced.
