Southern Italy Itinerary: 2 Days in Matera (Part 1)

A few years ago, I spent a week town-hopping through Puglia and fell in love with how undiscovered this corner of Italy still felt. When planning my return to Southern Italy, I knew I wanted to start with a bucket list stay in one of Matera’s ancient cave dwellings. This two-part guide shares my complete week in Southern Italy — starting here with 2 days in Matera, then continuing with 5 days exploring the coast and towns of Puglia.

With my close friend Lauren (also a toddler mom in need of a girl’s getaway) we planned an indulgent trip through southern Italy starting in Matera: a city over 9,000 years old with cave dwellings that feel like stepping back millennia. Our days consisted of leisurely breakfasts at our hotel, getting lost in ancient streets and seeking out delicious italian food. While this was very much a girls’ trip, this exact itinerary works beautifully as a romantic escape. The sunsets, the intimate cave hotels, the ancient stone streets — it all translates perfectly to either vibe.

This guide breaks down exactly how to spend 2 days in Matera, where to stay for the full cave hotel experience, and why I wish I’d added a third night.

2-3 DAYS

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BEST TIME TO VISIT – Late spring (May-June) or early fall (September-October) for warm weather and fewer crowds

WEATHER – Hot, dry Mediterranean summers; mild, pleasant shoulder seasons

GETTING AROUND – Walking only in Matera’s historic center; parking available outside the city

CURRENCY – Euros, most places take credit cards

LANGUAGES – Italian, some English in tourist areas

NEARBY AIRPORTS – Bari Airport (BRI), about 1 hour from Matera

About Matera

I chose Matera for its incredible history (it’s over 9000 years old!) and unique cave dwellings, also known as the ‘Sassi’, knowing it would be crowded but worth it. Matera was actually abandoned until the 1980s, when restoration efforts transformed the neglected caves into a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s been growing in popularity ever since. I wanted to experience staying in an ancient cave hotel and spend time wandering the maze-like streets at different times of day. The food in Matera was surprisingly good, and there was more to explore than I anticipated.

Photos: all vertical photos are Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita; horizontal view of Matera at night was taken from this viewpoint in front of the Duomo. 

Where I Stayed in Matera: Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita

This was the stay that defined the trip. Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita is the ‘original’ cave hotel in Matera, carved into the ancient Sassi on the edge of town, away from the main tourist bustle. Each room is a restored cave dwelling with minimal intervention. Think exposed stone walls, candlelight, and an atmosphere that feels like stepping back millennia.

Here’s what I learned about Matera: I’d treat a stay here the same way I’d treat Santorini. The property you choose matters just as much as the destination itself. The main streets get crowded with tourists, but the right hotel makes you feel like you’ve truly stepped back in time — and honestly, you won’t want to leave it. Sextantio became our retreat. We’d return between wandering sessions, sit in the stone courtyard, and watch the light change over the valley below. The property is so picturesque that people walking by would stop to take photos, though they couldn’t enter (which only added to how special it felt to be staying there).

The location of Sextantio is slightly removed from the main tourist area, which I loved. It felt peaceful and authentic while still being an easy walk to the heart of Matera. If you want the full cave hotel experience without the crowds, this is it.

Book: Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita

Other Matera Cave Hotels to Consider:

• Cenobio Hotel – The best value option located next to Sextantio
• Il Palazzotto Residence & Winery – Beautiful boutique property with a winery in a central location (my second choice for this trip)
• Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort – Another wonderful cave hotel option with modern amenities

Matera Highlights

Matera as the light changes – Matera is a city best experienced without a plan. We spent hours wandering the narrow, winding alleys of the Sassi, stumbling upon hidden churches carved into rock, artisan workshops, and viewpoints that made us stop in our tracks. The stone glows golden at sunset, and the entire city transforms as the light shifts throughout the day. Evenings are magical and candlelit, like stepping back in time.

Best Matera viewpoint for sunset #1: The best sunset view of Matera, with the town and tower behind you (google maps coordinates):

Best Matera viewpoint for sunset #2: Panoramic views at a higher vantage point, right in front of and just below the Duomo (google maps coordinates):

Regia Corte, Matera (the best restaurant with a view in Matera) – This fine dining restaurant serves traditional Basilicata cuisine with sweeping views over the illuminated Sassi. The food was good, not outstanding, in my opinion, but the real draw is the incredible view. Get there at golden hour for the best experience watching the sky change color and the lights go on.

2-Day Matera Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Matera

• Fly into Bari airport, check into your hotel
• Catch the sunset by the duomo and have dinner nearby

Day 2: Full Day in Matera

• Explore Matera in the morning before the heat sets in. Wander the Sassi, duck into artisan shops, visit rock-hewn churches, and get intentionally lost in the alleyways
• Have aperitivo in one of the centuries-old cave bars and catch golden hour at one of the viewpoints in Matera
• Reserve dinner at Regia Corte ahead of time, request a terrace table for views

Day 3: Last Day in Matera

If you have time for a third day, I’d recommend:

• Morning visit to the rock churches you missed or an outing to this viewpoint overlooking the entire city (you can hike or drive)
• More time exploring quieter corners of the Sassi
• A final sunset from a different viewpoint

The full view of Matera from Belvedere Murgia Timone

What I’d Do Differently

Spend 3 nights in Matera instead of 2. I was surprised by how much I loved the food and how much there was to explore beyond the main sights. An extra night would have let us slow down and discover more without feeling rushed.

Practical Tips for Matera

Getting There: Fly into Bari Airport (1 hour drive) or take a train from major Italian cities.

Parking: Outside the historic center only, since Matera’s old town is pedestrian-only.

When to Visit: Mid-to-late September was perfect with warm weather and fewer crowds. May-June and September-October are ideal.

Language: Most people in tourist areas speak some English.

Budget: Accommodations in cave hotels lean upscale, but meals are reasonably priced.

When mapping out this trip, I knew I wanted to experience both the dramatic history of Matera and the slower, coastal pace of Puglia. After two magical days here, we continued south to explore the coast and towns of Puglia – read part 2 of our southern Italy itinerary here!