Panoramic aerial view of Odeon of Herodes Atticus ancient Roman theater on Acropolis slopes Athens Greece with Philopappos Hill and cityscape in backgroundWhen planning a trip to Greece, Athens is often seen as just a necessary stopover or the place you land before heading to the islands. But after spending time there on multiple trips, I’ve come to appreciate it as more than just a layover. Athens is complex: chaotic, beautiful, rough around the edges, and layered with history that feels present in everyday life.

For first-time visitors to Athens, particularly those island-bound, a few key insights can transform your experience from overwhelming to enjoyable. Here’s what I wish I knew before my first visit.

Athens Is Worth More Than a Night

It’s common to treat Athens as a quick overnight stay before catching a ferry, but I’d recommend spending at least 2-3 nights if your schedule allows. It’s enough time to visit major landmarks, explore a couple of neighborhoods, and get a feel for the city beyond the tourist sites. Athens isn’t instantly photogenic like the islands, but the more time you spend here, the more it grows on you.

The Airport and Port Are Not Close to Each Other

One of the most practical things to know: Athens International Airport is around 45-60 minutes from the city center, depending on traffic. If you’re planning to take a ferry to the islands, Piraeus Port is in the opposite direction, it’s another 30-60 minutes by car or metro.

If you’re arriving late at night or have an early ferry, choose your hotel based on logistics. For instance:

Stay near the airport if you land after 9pm. The Sofitel Athens is by far the most convenient option as it’s located at the airport; normally I always avoid airport hotels, but I find this one to be surprisingly comfortable and clean.

Stay near the port or in central Athens if you have a morning ferry. Hotel Alex Monte Kastella is a 3-4 minute taxi ride to the port with sea view rooms and a modern rooftop. 

Where You Stay Matters

Athens has distinct neighborhoods, and where you base yourself will shape your experience.

  • Plaka & Anafiotika: Picturesque and walkable, though crowded. Great for first-timers who want to be close to historical sites. Stay: Ergon House (Plaka)
  • Koukaki: A quieter area near the Acropolis Museum, with a local feel and great cafes. Stay:11 Enteka
  • Monastiraki & Psiri: Busier and more eclectic, ideal if you want nightlife, street art, and easy metro access. Stay:The Foundry Suites, Mona Athens (Psiri)
  • Kolonaki: Clean, upscale, with boutique hotels and wine bars. Stay: Bugan-villa, Monsieur Didot
  • Petralona & Exarchia: Less touristy, more lived-in, with cool restaurants and bars. Stay: The Q Hotel (Exarchia)

For more insight on where to stay, don’t miss my Athens Travel Guide.

Summer Heat is Real, Plan Around It

If you’re visiting in July or August, expect extreme heat, highs can hit 100°F (38°C), and it feels even warmer among the stone and marble streets.

  • Visit major sights early in the day, ideally before 10 a.m.
  • Bring a water bottle, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes.
  • If you’re not tied to school holidays, May, early June and September–October are far better times to visit. The weather is still warm, but more manageable.

The Food Scene Goes Beyond Greek Classics

Greek food is always a highlight, and in Athens, there’s much more than gyros and moussaka. Look for:

  • Casual tavernas in Koukaki or Petralona with rotating daily dishes.
  • Modern Greek restaurants that put a fresh spin on traditional flavors. Check out michelin-starred Nolan or deli-style Karamanlidika.
  • Rooftop spots like Couleur Locale or A for Athens for a drink with a view.
  • Coffee and natural wine bars in Exarchia or Kolonaki, they rival those in bigger European cities.

Skip restaurants catering tourists in which you’re being lured in to sit down. Ask locals where they eat, and try whatever’s fresh and in season.

Walking Is the Best Way to Get Around

Athens has a metro system that’s reliable and affordable, but the best way to explore is on foot. The historical center is surprisingly walkable, with pedestrian streets linking major landmarks.

Keep in mind the sidewalks can be uneven and slick (especially the marble ones), and crosswalks are not always respected. Be alert when crossing roads.

Narrow cobblestone alleyways in Anafiotika neighborhood Athens with Acropolis in backgroundAthens Acropolis hill with Parthenon temple and ancient Greek ruins overlooking the city center in Greece

Left: An alleyway in Anafiotika; Right: The parthenon overlooking Athens city.

Local Etiquette Is Simple and Easy to Follow

A few things that help when navigating local customs:

  • Say hello: “Kalimera” (good morning) or “Yassas” (hi/bye, formal) are polite and appreciated.
  • Tipping isn’t mandatory, but rounding up or leaving 5-10% at restaurants is common.
  • Don’t expect fast service: Dining in Greece is meant to be relaxed, and meals are not rushed.

People in Athens are generally friendly and open, even more so if you show a bit of effort with basic Greek greetings.

You Won’t See Everything, and That’s Fine

The Acropolis is iconic and worth visiting, but it will likely be crowded and hot unless you go first thing in the morning. Don’t feel like you have to do every museum or monument during your visit – Athens is a city best experienced at a slower pace.

Some of my favorite moments have been unplanned, like stumbling on a lively street where everyone is enjoying greek tapas at 10pm or turning a corner only to discover ancient ruins in the middle of the city.

Final Thoughts

Athens may not be the easiest city to love right away, but it’s one of the most interesting. If you give it time, you’ll start to notice the small things: the unique feel of the streets, the layers of history sandwiched between modern streets, the spirited Greek hospitality and conversations. 

For first-time visitors to Greece, Athens adds a dimension you won’t get on the islands. It’s gritty and lively, challenging in the best way. If you take the time to see past the surface, it’s worth every minute.

Visit my full Athens travel guide for where to stay, eat and sleep. If you’re heading to Athens en route to the Greek Islands, be sure to check out my guides for Santorini, Mykonos, Paros and more. View all island guides here